Bizarre things to taste in Madeira

Can you imagine what a banana crossed with a passion fruit tastes like? Or the fruit of perhaps the most famous of all roomies – Monstery? Such oddities are offered by the wonderfully diverse flora of Madeira. Terraced fields covered with bananas are everywhere in Madeira. But if you want a taste of the real, some might say unconventional, exotics you’ve probably never had before, look for fruit and vegetable stalls along the roads. You’ll often see farmers on the side of the road. Stop by for a chat and a bite to eat.

If you want to have everything in one place, then look for a fruit/vegetable market. In the capital city of Funchal there’s a very famous and touristy one – Mercado dos Lavradores. If you don’t mind getting a bit of a turn around, feel free to pop in. Before the farmer sells you something with a fivefold mark-up, he’ll let you taste different kinds of exotic fruits. The market building itself is quite interesting, with traditional azulejos and definitely worth a visit.

We were most impressed with the Anona fruit (Custard Apple), which tasted like a strawberry-banana milkshake. And when perfectly chilled, it surpasses even the ice cream from Creme dela Creme! Tamarillo, small soft apples crossed with tomatoes, offers an interesting combination of tartness and sweetness. And have you ever eaten a cactus? No? Then try Tabaibo! They’re called “figs of the devil”, probably because they’re so damn good. You’ll find several varieties of maracuja, dragon fruit, papaya, guava, physalis and many other fruity delights at the market.

If you like edible fudge, head to Curral das Freiras – Valley of the Nuns. It’s a picturesque mountain village in the heart of the island and you’ll literally be tripping over chestnuts and chestnut products. They even sell chestnut schnapps (as a souvenir you’ll appreciate). If you pop into any restaurant here, you’ll see at least 8 chestnut dishes on the menu out of 10. Don’t be afraid to try the chestnut soup.

The last and biggest bizarro is the national Madeiran dish called Espada. Try or die. Fried breaded fillet of fish (Atlantic weaver) on which is placed a baked banana (sometimes pineapple), topped with maracuja sauce. Even if you’re not a lover of gastro oldschool (like the chicken slice with peach), you’ll enjoy this one.