Martin & Tina • 12. 11. 2025

Travel

Who doesn’t know the photos: ancient, twisted laurels rising out of the thick fog, silence and atmosphere like in Lord of the Rings. Fanal Forest is rightly one of the most iconic and sought-after places in Madeira. Until recently, the absolute freedom of the place added to its charm – you could wander freely among the trees, touch the moss-covered bark, find your own hidden corner and take photos from every possible angle.

But this freedom seems to be over. If you are going to Madeira now, be prepared for a different Fanal than the one you know from the photos of older travellers.

What is changing in Fanal and why?

It’s no secret that Fanal’s popularity has exploded on social media. With thousands of visitors a day came a problem. The soil around the trees was being choked to stone, fragile root systems were being exposed and the magical forest began to suffer under the onslaught of boots and tripods. Fanal is part of the Laurisilva Laurel Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its protection has become a priority.

Fanal Forest

Fanal

Les Fanal is a beautiful, peaceful area in the Laurissilva forest in the north-west of the island, which is not to be missed on your visit to Madeira. The forest is known for its mystique and is very popular. The Laurel Forest area is especially magical when surrounded by fog, but if you’re not lucky enough to see it, Fanal is still worth a visit. You may find you won’t be able to see the tourists through the fog.

Fanal is a favourite place for photographers due to its unique atmosphere. The ancient laurel forest, the moss-covered trees and the play of light filtering through the dense treetops provide wonderful photo opportunities.

There are cows and bulls in Fanal, which are not dangerous and will be happy to pose for you. But be sure to keep a safe distance and don’t get too close to them, and certainly don’t provoke them in any way.

Show the detail

The local administration therefore decided to take a radical, but probably necessary step. In the Fanal area, wooden walkways, fences and clearly defined paths were built. These “corridors” are intended to direct the movement of visitors and prevent further damage to the sensitive ecosystem. Park rangers (Nature Wardens) will also now be monitoring the movement of people and parking to ensure that the rules are being followed.

Has the place lost its charm?

Let’s be honest: yes, the original, wild atmosphere of discovery is largely gone. You can no longer just get lost in the fog and feel like you’re the only person for miles. You’ll be moving along a marked trail with others. For those of us who remember Fanal “before”, this is a bit sad news.

But does that mean you should cut Fanal out of your plan? Absolutely not.

Original atmosphere of Fanal, year 2022.

Those majestic trees are still there. The fog (if you’re lucky) still comes in waves and changes the scenery every second. The atmosphere of the place is “channeled” but still incredibly powerful. Plus, the wooden walkways will at least protect your shoes from the ubiquitous mud and cow “treats”. The bottom line is that, thanks to these measures, this fragile forest will be here for generations to come.

Plan your Madeira with us (and the new Fanal)

Planning a trip to Madeira can be tricky – the island is full of places that are constantly changing. Fanal is just one of the many must-see spots.

If you want to make sure your trip is worth it, check out our detailed itineraries to Madeira. We’ll guide you through the best treks, show you the hidden sights and, of course, take you to Fanal – with precise tips on when to go so you can enjoy the best atmosphere despite the new rules.